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When one decides to chase after that squirrel at the park it can most likely turn into a team effort so you'd better have a reliable recall if they are off leash or a solid heel if they're on leash.  I would suggest classes together as well separate.

I have two males about 9 months apart.  It's been hard work with a few tears shed.  Good luck to ya!   

It looks like Sophie just loves your boy.

Well, it seems you have it figured out so why NOT use the food lure?  The whole point of using food is to get the behaviour you want without having to physically force your dog to obey, then give him a verbal cue with the food then wean him off from getting a treat every time, to every other time, to every 4th time etc etc.  My guys still get a yummy treat once in a while for coming in the house when called.  I am not impressed at all by the idea of getting my gear on to go outside and get them and have them dance around playing "catch me if you can".

If luring him isn't working you can also try making a trail of small yummy treats from him to inside the house that he has to follow and as he starts to "get it" you can space out the treats.  Or you might want to try to lure him by smearing some canned tripe onto a wooden spoon or handle of a broom depending on how far the reach is from him and the door and lure him that way.  Then you won't have to open the door so wide and let all the warm air out, just a crack wide enough to stick the broom out until he gets to the door.  When he does get into the house you can give him a JACKPOT of small treats or an extra lick of the spoon for a job well done.

By locking him in your bedroom I'm assuming you close the door and maybe that is a cause of great stress for him.  Could you try putting the baby gate up instead and see if his stress lessens by not feeling so confined.  If closing him in, even if it's a big room, gives him anxiety I definitely wouldn't crate him.  Bring a chewie into the bedroom for him to enjoy while you read a book or watch T.V. in bed so he settles.

Could also be that he's not jumping the gate because he has to poop per se but that he's so worked up from being confined that he finally escapes and is relieving himself to make him feel better.  "Stress dumps."  He may just do best if you let him have the run of the house at night. 

You could also teach him to ring a bell to go out.

Some stuff to think about, anyway.

My dogs get Recovery.  I buy mine in the powder form at a health food store for cheaper than what the vet charges.  http://www.recoverysa.com/

Swimming is easy on the joints and real good for the muscles.  Some cities have indoor doggie pools you might want to look into.

Try bringing a squeaky toy with you on your group walks.  Find one that's small and has the most obnoxious squeak.  You can use that as a distraction before she goes over the edge or to try and bring her back.  She'll stop growling, barking, lunging which will help you relax so you can teach her to focus on you.  Let her have the toy for a less than a minute or so as a reward and then put it away again for the next time.

I would say, regardless of your training methods, at some point, you are going to have a conflict occur probably between your 2 and 16 month old males someday. No multi-dog household is completely quiet and calm. Dogs can't talk like we do and the way they settle disputes is often through growls, posturing, a nip here or there, etc. The thing is to allow it and not worry about it unless someone is getting seriously hurt by the other dog. The more you break up small disputes between your dogs, the larger the conflict will grow due to their frustration of never being allowed to handle it themselves.

Now I never saw them do it, but I can probably promise you that at some point when I wan't home and my Saint and Malamute were home alone, they probably had some good squabbles to establish hierarchy and figure out what is and isn't okay with each other. Even now, my females will have minor disputes. I never break it up unless someone is getting seriously hurt. It is of utmost importance to let the dogs settle things is what I believe.

Conflicts are inevitable.  Yes there may be growls which I will (and do) allow IF it's warranted.  Such as stepping on someone's toes, being too in your face etc.  Posturing, staring intensely, mounting and fighting are just not acceptable in MY house.  I am the one that steps in if things are getting out of hand and I will never let them "work things out" between themselves.  They count on me to be the rule maker and peacemaker.  When I do have a conflict I reexamine what went wrong and how I can make sure it doesn't happen again.

The book I referred to in my other post is called Feeling Outnumbered?  How to Manage and Enjoy Your Multi-dog Household.  It's like 10 bucks.

Some of the Chapters are Life is Not ALways Fair and That's Okay.  The idea being dogs need to cope with the frustration of not always getting what they want whenever they want it and giving up on treating your dogs equally  at the same moment, all the time in an attempt to be fair. 

Chapters on Status, Body Blocks and one called When Someone Else is Belle of the Ball are great.  I used body blocking aallll the time when I first started teaching these guys not to be so pushy.  The belle of the ball chapter deals with teaching your dog how to handle watching another get treats and praise and attention.  Very useful for when you're at the pet store or when you're out for a walk and the mailman wants to pet the other dog.

Staying Away From Trouble: Prevention, Thank You for Not Fighting or Making Threats in My Home could be useful to the original poster.  And while this post is old I hope it it can still help someone out.