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Messages - FXgirl

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Bull Terrier Discussions & Pictures / Re: I'd Like to Introduce...
« on: January 27, 2009, 02:51:13 pm »
So because he's a single pup with no litter mates what kind of special care or extra work is involved?

Have fun with your new baby!

When one decides to chase after that squirrel at the park it can most likely turn into a team effort so you'd better have a reliable recall if they are off leash or a solid heel if they're on leash.  I would suggest classes together as well separate.

I have two males about 9 months apart.  It's been hard work with a few tears shed.  Good luck to ya!  :D 

Your instructor is a wanker.  Who cares if she's not the fastest or the most agile.  People get so wrapped up in the competition instead of focusing on having fun and bonding.  You know the best way to get results from your dog.  There's no way I could do repetition with my guys either.  Most of the time instructors think I'm just standing there and not practicing a training exercise.  I give plenty of breaks when training and there are some things I opt not to do because I know my dog.

All the instructors at the place I have always gone to with my three pups have suggested we teach the "wash, rinse, repeat" trick which consists of holding a treat out and getting the dog to follow it, fast, in a tight circle then changing direction then changing direction again.  Kinda like clothes being spun in the washing machine.  YEAH RIGHT.  I always stand there during that exercise.

I start rally-o tonight.  I paid the money so I'll train at my own pace.

As far as suggestions for getting her to put both paws on the target, I have one.  I would change your target from a plate, or lid or whatever you're using and cut out a round piece of cardboard.  That way you can cut it to a "big paw" size.  You can have her walk onto it by luring her and when her two front feet touch it, click it.  You can start off with a big target and cut it down to a smaller size as she gets better.

Great Pyrenees Pictures / Re: Binky and Sophie pix
« on: January 12, 2009, 01:33:33 pm »
It looks like Sophie just loves your boy.

If there's no pain, inflammation and he's walking without limping, he's fine.  But you will want to see the vet to rule that out.  Clicking sounds are pretty common.  I have a leo who's hocks click and know of others who are older and have had no problems as they age.  It might go away since he's still growing or it might not.

You can read more here:

Well, it seems you have it figured out so why NOT use the food lure?  The whole point of using food is to get the behaviour you want without having to physically force your dog to obey, then give him a verbal cue with the food then wean him off from getting a treat every time, to every other time, to every 4th time etc etc.  My guys still get a yummy treat once in a while for coming in the house when called.  I am not impressed at all by the idea of getting my gear on to go outside and get them and have them dance around playing "catch me if you can".

If luring him isn't working you can also try making a trail of small yummy treats from him to inside the house that he has to follow and as he starts to "get it" you can space out the treats.  Or you might want to try to lure him by smearing some canned tripe onto a wooden spoon or handle of a broom depending on how far the reach is from him and the door and lure him that way.  Then you won't have to open the door so wide and let all the warm air out, just a crack wide enough to stick the broom out until he gets to the door.  When he does get into the house you can give him a JACKPOT of small treats or an extra lick of the spoon for a job well done.

General Board for Big Dogs with Big Paws / Re: Time To Ask For Help...
« on: November 20, 2008, 07:22:49 am »
I don't see this as a house training issue if he's not using your carpets as a bathroom during the day when you are home.  If he's still going #2 outside, during the day when you are home(and not saving it up for nighttime) I would be leaning more towards anxiety issues.  I would seriously be reading up on separation anxiety as there are a few things that you've said that make me suspicious. 

Putting up a higher/wider gate would only save your carpets(potentially he is in danger of hurting himself).  I would instead be working on making him feel comfortable being home alone or even alone in another room while you sleep. 

I would take care using a crate with a dog who bolts or needs an escape route out of an uncomfortable situation.  You could set one up with the door always open and condition him into making that a secure spot to go to when he's freaked out but I would not lock him in so he doesn't feel cornered.  Not to mention a big dog like him shouldn't be locked in a crate for long periods of time anyway.

You obviously know him and the situation better than me or anyone else here and it's difficult to get the entire picture but if you haven't looked into separation anxiety it would be something to consider.

General Board for Big Dogs with Big Paws / Re: Time To Ask For Help...
« on: November 19, 2008, 11:26:20 am »
By locking him in your bedroom I'm assuming you close the door and maybe that is a cause of great stress for him.  Could you try putting the baby gate up instead and see if his stress lessens by not feeling so confined.  If closing him in, even if it's a big room, gives him anxiety I definitely wouldn't crate him.  Bring a chewie into the bedroom for him to enjoy while you read a book or watch T.V. in bed so he settles.

Could also be that he's not jumping the gate because he has to poop per se but that he's so worked up from being confined that he finally escapes and is relieving himself to make him feel better.  "Stress dumps."  He may just do best if you let him have the run of the house at night. 

You could also teach him to ring a bell to go out.

Some stuff to think about, anyway.

Old English Mastiff Discussions / Re: Adding possibley another OEM
« on: November 07, 2008, 04:37:51 pm »
I don't want to burst your bubble but your nice little puppy will soon be a teenager which pretty much guarantees he will rebel.  The puppy stage is easy...just wait til the hormones kick in.  Teenage dogs are much like human teenagers.  They are trying to find themselves, they test limits, blah blah blah. 

I personally would re-examine a "quality" OEM at that cheap of a price.  Sounds too good to be true.

I think you still have puppy fever!!! ;)

My dogs get Recovery.  I buy mine in the powder form at a health food store for cheaper than what the vet charges.

Swimming is easy on the joints and real good for the muscles.  Some cities have indoor doggie pools you might want to look into.

Newfoundland Discussions / Re: October not a good month
« on: November 01, 2008, 10:34:36 am »
Oh boy that looks painful.  Poor girl. 

Leonberger Discussions / Re: Sophie is driving me crazy- vent/need advice
« on: October 27, 2008, 10:46:42 am »
Try bringing a squeaky toy with you on your group walks.  Find one that's small and has the most obnoxious squeak.  You can use that as a distraction before she goes over the edge or to try and bring her back.  She'll stop growling, barking, lunging which will help you relax so you can teach her to focus on you.  Let her have the toy for a less than a minute or so as a reward and then put it away again for the next time.

Leonberger Discussions / Re: Sophie is driving me crazy- vent/need advice
« on: October 25, 2008, 06:57:17 pm »
I feel for ya, I really do.  Hang in there.

You ask: are leo pups generally like this?  Mine have always been a handful but Sophie sounds like a shovelful.

Is it possible your house is so over stimulating and so tempting with distractions for both Sophie and you?  It's incredible that you can handle so much on your own.  Maybe what Sophie needs is a lot of forced time outs by herself where she can just chill and get away from everything where it's quiet.  A crate, x-pen, dog run with a chewie for a few hours?

When she's in the house why not try leashing her to your waist so she can't get into so much trouble stealing food and bugging your other dogs.  It'll be easy to catch her in the act when she is doing something wrong too.  It'll be good training for her to settle by your feet when you do the dishes or follow you around when you do laundry.

Maybe you can try taking her to a doggie day care once a week?

When Gunnar was the same age as your Sophie I entered him in a leo show.  It was a 3 day show and I stayed for one day.  He was such an embarrassment.

Alaskan Malamute Discussions / Re: Alaskan Malamutes
« on: October 25, 2008, 06:32:02 pm »
I would say, regardless of your training methods, at some point, you are going to have a conflict occur probably between your 2 and 16 month old males someday. No multi-dog household is completely quiet and calm. Dogs can't talk like we do and the way they settle disputes is often through growls, posturing, a nip here or there, etc. The thing is to allow it and not worry about it unless someone is getting seriously hurt by the other dog. The more you break up small disputes between your dogs, the larger the conflict will grow due to their frustration of never being allowed to handle it themselves.

Now I never saw them do it, but I can probably promise you that at some point when I wan't home and my Saint and Malamute were home alone, they probably had some good squabbles to establish hierarchy and figure out what is and isn't okay with each other. Even now, my females will have minor disputes. I never break it up unless someone is getting seriously hurt. It is of utmost importance to let the dogs settle things is what I believe.

Conflicts are inevitable.  Yes there may be growls which I will (and do) allow IF it's warranted.  Such as stepping on someone's toes, being too in your face etc.  Posturing, staring intensely, mounting and fighting are just not acceptable in MY house.  I am the one that steps in if things are getting out of hand and I will never let them "work things out" between themselves.  They count on me to be the rule maker and peacemaker.  When I do have a conflict I reexamine what went wrong and how I can make sure it doesn't happen again.

The book I referred to in my other post is called Feeling Outnumbered?  How to Manage and Enjoy Your Multi-dog Household.  It's like 10 bucks.

Some of the Chapters are Life is Not ALways Fair and That's Okay.  The idea being dogs need to cope with the frustration of not always getting what they want whenever they want it and giving up on treating your dogs equally  at the same moment, all the time in an attempt to be fair. 

Chapters on Status, Body Blocks and one called When Someone Else is Belle of the Ball are great.  I used body blocking aallll the time when I first started teaching these guys not to be so pushy.  The belle of the ball chapter deals with teaching your dog how to handle watching another get treats and praise and attention.  Very useful for when you're at the pet store or when you're out for a walk and the mailman wants to pet the other dog.

Staying Away From Trouble: Prevention, Thank You for Not Fighting or Making Threats in My Home could be useful to the original poster.  And while this post is old I hope it it can still help someone out.

Alaskan Malamute Discussions / Re: Alaskan Malamutes
« on: October 24, 2008, 07:03:57 pm »
Really you guys?  This is the advice you suggest?   I'm fairly new to the multi-dog household thing but is this the common approach to having a peaceful pack?  Is it because of the breeds you guys own that you let them fight and work it out for themselves?  What do they fight about?  This really has me freaking out of things to come since I have three males 6, 2 and 16 months.

Patricia McConnell has a great little book about managing multi-dog households that I like.  No dog here is allowed to be bossy and I try to focus my training on teaching manners and patience.  I hope it works out otherwise I'm in for some trouble.

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