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Messages - sc.trojans

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31

It is getting really frustrating as he'll bark to come inside, be standing RIGHT by the door, peering in the window, and we'll open it for him...and he'll back up, and just stand there, looking at us. And won't move.


Two thoughts:

1st:  Are you sure he wants to come in? Perhaps he wants you to come out with him?  Berners are renowned for wanting to be with their humans - always - and were bred to be by our sides.  They also love to be outside, especially at night when it is cool and smells come out (animals).  It is not unusual for a Berner to ask their humans to be out there with them - playing with them.  Mine do this - literally demand barking to have me come out.

2nd:  if you rule the above out, then carefully review anything that is stressing him.  Beyond the door itself, is the threshold/entry to the door slippery?  Has he ever missed his footing there? Had anything just inside the door happen negatively?  It doesn't take much for Berners who are so emotionally sensitive - slipping once can cement a floor phobia and generalization for life for example, so don't limit your thinking - it can be something inconceivably small.



32
Medical Conditions & Diseases / Re: Here we go for TPLO
« on: January 03, 2009, 08:44:00 am »
Just curious - where are you having the TPLO surgery done? Did the vet discuss any other options?  How old is Sophie?

Just to second Seaherons here - have you thoroughly researched all of your ACL options including getting a second and third opinion?  Vets always have a preference based on their specialty (understandable) for the procedure they do - but may not always be in your dog's best interest. Surgeons here where I am will tell you "absolutely TPLO" while others will say "Never TPLO - only TTA" etc.

I always encourage people to thoroughly weigh the risks and benefits of TPLO vs. TTA vs. Traditional repair.

I know many surgeons say big/giant dogs shouldn't have traditional but I have seen it work many times - I believe it is less about size and weight and more about activity.  Activity level and specific actions/behaviors should drive the decision to rule the traditional procedure out.  The sedate, older giant dog who goes for long walks, but no twisty/turny play or hard stops is a good candidate for traditional repair.  Otherwise, the more invasive procedures may be necessary.  TTA is still an osteotomy (severe bone cutting) but of a lesser bone, and therefore less invasive.  The recovery of TTA is shorter than a TPLO - outcomes are still hard to come by however since TTA hasn't been around as long as the TPLO.

Personally,  a TPLO would be my last choice out of all of the options and a last resort - most invasive, most leg altering in changing the entire angulation (affecting the other side and overall balance of the dog), and longest/hardest recovery.  With that said, there are dogs that required a TPLO when nothing else worked and it was successful in the end. 

So just be sure you are comfortable with this procedure for YOUR dog - you know your dog best and can make the best determination and it should be about her and only her.

You may want to join Orthodogs on Yahoo - they have scores of studies on all of the procedures - outcomes to date, and lots of people with experience with all of them.  They can help with rehab following the procedure, games to play during restriction and complications that can arise.

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/orthodogs/?yguid=106528238

Also, take a look at a fellow Berner owner's site that gives great guidance on getting through a TPLO and great games to play following surgery:

http://www.lauriebryce.com/tplo/

And last, if I can emphasize one thing:  it is the criticality of therapy following surgery.  I have just been helping three people in my area following TTA surgery on their dogs;  one did surgery with no therapy following and her dog has completely atrophied and lost function of the leg.  The other is doing therapy at home with use of exercise balls purchased and a DVD and seeing good results, and the third is seeing optimal results with full return to function by going to therapy and using underwater treadmill and range of motion exercises specifically tailored to the dog.  No matter what the degree you use - whether home use through DVDs or going to rehab, anything helps and is critical to returning to function.  Please don't ignore this step and think you're done with surgery.

Good luck!

33
Behavior, Housebreaking, Obedience / Re: Marking (not in pencil)
« on: December 27, 2008, 06:51:58 pm »

If it is true marking, then neutering absolutely helps.  Every rescue I get is always intact (I only foster males) and they always came into my home marking - until they're neutered and then it is very very easy to train out - 24 hours in this house and its gone.  Without neutering, training is an uphill battle but can be done for some.

34

A CHIC number on a dog means that the owner has completed all recommended health testing and received "clearances" for all health certs for that breed.  Good breeders are often getting CHIC numbers to demonstrate their health clearances and it distinguishes them from those less reputable who are not getting health clearances.  The specific health tests to be performed are defined by each breed and therefore vary.

The Canine Health Information Center is a centralized health database jointly sponsored by the AKC Canine Health Foundation and the Orthopedic Foundation of America (OFA).

www.canineheal thinfo.org




35

Hey guys....do you know why olive oil may help some dogs and fish oils may help others with dry skin? 

I thought sharing this may help some....

Fish Oils are rich in omega 3s - it is now understood that dogs require omega 3s and the NRC states that a proper ratio to omega 6s is required (resulting in healthy skin, coat and reduced inflammation).  So if omega 6s get too high, or simply omega 3s too low....the addition of fish oils will help.  If they don't help, then this isn't the issue, and perhaps omega 3s are already too high relative to omega 6s for example.

Olive oil on the other hand is predominately omega 6 (and some omega 9). Since it contains very little omega 3, it is a poor source for this.  If omega 6 is needed, this will help - but if omega 6 is already too high, and/or omega 3 deficient, you will not see any benefit likely from the addition of this ingredient.  Olive oil is also 100% fat so a good source of this if this is needed in the diet.

I just wanted to clarify that they are doing different things and therefore not interchangeabl e.



36
Groans, Gripes, Brags & Boasts / Re: Bite Inhibition
« on: December 05, 2008, 05:46:21 pm »

As most others have already stated, no 5 months is not too old and in fact, mouthing would naturally be at its peak right about now.  It is not unusual at all and perfectly normal - he is still a baby and just in teething.

Since your post was titled "bite inhibition" I think it is an important point - bite inhibition as you already know is learning the strength of his mouth and how to use it properly - a puppy does not come into the world naturally understanding this and it only comes from practice, on a variety of objects, to learn.  It is our job to teach a puppy what is appropriate to put his mouth on and what is not, but it is even more important to ensure that puppy has experienced putting his teeth on human flesh and understands the right strenght - or gentleness .  This is right where your puppy is, so it is less about suppressing this behavior right now and more about teaching that it is hurtful, or too strong on human skin.

Mouthing, as common as it is, also varies by breed.  I am one who believes strongly that mouthing is a bigger concern in some breeds than others.  Those breeds with functions that are naturally supposed to be using their mouths, are usually the most mouthy of course.  While I understand wanting to strongly teach a herding dog for example not to use their mouth (that IS a problem in that job), it is ridiculous to expect a golden retriever to NOT use their mouth - its instinct for them and a natural behavior for life.

You have one such breed - newfies often use their mouths to pull dingy pulls and rescue batons in their rescue work - to me, learning the strength of his mouth and then putting his mouth to good work by giving him batons and tuffy toys to carry/hold is a great outlet and good for teaching what to put his mouth on.....a matter or "re-directing" the behavior...not "suppressing" it in my view.



37
Akita Discussions / Re: Black spots appearing on the underbelly skin.
« on: November 20, 2008, 07:12:19 am »


Is the skin turning - or are there specific, defined spots?  If the skin is turning black along the loins, or in the armpit area this is a good sign of an endocrine problem.  It is commonly seen in dogs with low cortisol/low adrenal function and these dogs are often hypothyroid (pituitary drives adrenals which drives thyroid) and so commonly thought of as a low thyroid issue as well.

If the spots are defined, then this could be a host of other issues and by itself, too hard to tell.



38


I always recommend OFA pre-lims done on puppies right at your pup's age - even if no symptoms or signs are present.  X-rays done now will give you far more options, and preventative strategies than ignoring it.

Bunny hopping is a telltale sign of hip dysplasia and should never be ignored in my view.  It is not a normal gait for a puppy, even if panosteitis is the only condition. There can be many causes of it, and some easily correctable with rest and range of motion exercises, but you want to identify early for the most options, especially if it turns out to be dysplasia.

Get your pup on several joint supplements critical for big dogs now as well - glucosamine and chondroitin (Synflex is a great product and easily assimilated), celadrin or hyaluronic acid for joint lubrication, and potentially wobenzym if necessary.

Good luck!

39
Anything Non-Dog Related / Re: Oh No! Cleaning assistance needed
« on: November 09, 2008, 05:34:02 pm »

For me, the challenge is finding the right cleaner for the issue, that is ALSO non-toxic for the paws walking around bare on the surface.

So I always use OxyClean or Petastic to clean all of my rugs and carpets - even to sanitize stone.  Petastic is a great natural enzyme cleaner and the best on the market.  OxyClean can often lift a lot of fresher stains as long as they aren't set - even wine.

For even heavier duty, you can also use hydrogen peroxide - but test on colored carpet in an inconspicuous spot first.

Whatever you do - avoid shampoos and anything with actual detergent in them - those actually set in the carpet and attract dirt - making soiling a compounding problem and you never truly get them out of your carpets, once in.

I use Bissell cleaning products - including Proheat and spotbot...but if professional steam is needed, then I only consider and use ChemDry (non-toxic and soap free).



40

Congratulation s to the state of Mass for taking a great step forward for dogs!

Based on this thread, I am sorry to hear that it sounds like we have a lot of work to do still to educate the public on the disgusting industry of greyhound racing.  I am afraid that the understanding of this issue is even less understood than puppymills, so I hope more work can be done here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfhZMaIGPyE&feature=related

The reality is that the industry needs to be eliminated or else the drive for racing profit will continue to prevail over the health and safety of these dogs.  The notion that racing should not be eliminated because its what these dogs do is really missing the point:  these dogs are designed to run and as sighthounds, track prey - this continues every day in wonderful environments where I live - it's called "lure coursing" and these events allow sighthounds the opportunity to do what they do - run through large open acreage of fields chasing what they love, then returning to the arms of their loving owners and going home to a warm bed.  Lure coursing events, both for competition and pure recreation are fun to watch and my own Berner loves participating - she actually beat the Borzois two years ago!

I hope this conversation continues here so that more can understand the true atrocities done to greyhounds.  It is absolutely NO better than dog fighting and this country has recognized the need to put that to an end.

I hope Mass. sets a precedent.....

41
German Shepherd Discussions / Re: proper dog beach etiquette?
« on: November 01, 2008, 06:34:07 pm »

Unfortunately, it is impossible to evaluate the situation with just this description - it depends on a lot more dynamic between the two dogs to know for sure.

But as someone who frequents dog beaches, I can offer something about etiquette:

-Owners of herding breeds should always be mindful that while their "herding" behaviors are "fun" for their dog, it is not necessarily always fun for the herded dog.  Owners should always inquire with other owners first, or call off their dog and not allow - especially of small dogs who will naturally feel like prey and be defensive.

Given the wimper you describe, I am making just a guess that your dog was treating him more like "prey" than a true playmate - yes this will be offensive to said dog potentially so always something to watch out for.

-I witness at least one case of "bullying" every time I am at the beach.  Owners of bullies rarely realize it (I trust they wouldnt allow the behavior if they realized).  Because bullying another dog is "fun" and reinforcing for some dogs, many owners describe it as "my dog is just playing"......

The most important thing to remember is that "playing" can only occur when two dogs are consenting and participating - my dog having fun chasing, but the other dog running in fear with ears pinned is not "play" for example - that is bullying even when I know my dog's intentions are not "bad".  Play should be an equal give and take.

What I always suggest to people is that the key is not to watch your own dog (who may be having fun) but the other dog - THAT DOG will always show you the true behavior of your own dog.  If that dog isn't wagging her tail and making eye contact....you need to intervene.

So without knowing about your situation, I would suggest that you don't allow a german shepherd (who will naturally have strong prey drive and herding instincts and tends to herd intensely on the rear of a dog and mouthe) to exercise his work ethic at the beach on other dogs unless they show a direct willingness to participate and owners are ok with the behavior.  And consider the body language of that other dog - I am venturing a guess that for the owner to get that mad, he was seeing his dog feeling intimidated long before she wimpered.

As an aside, I had my own altercation with a GSD owner at the beach, and see GSD owners have an unusually tough time at the beach due to this very issue - their dog's natural herding instincts are strong and many dogs don't take kindly to it and owners get upset.  It is all too common and a tough challenge to manage. 

I think GSD owners can do great by these dogs by getting them into herding classes and herding instinct testing - there are events usually everywhere and it can help meet the breed's needs so they can then be prevented from doing it randomly on other dogs.  Managing them at the beach and having them know a cue to call them off herding it a big plus at the beach so you can still enjoy the beach outing.

42
Medical Conditions & Diseases / Re: Need help with pigment change
« on: October 23, 2008, 12:38:39 pm »

The original poster did not state the age of the dog - this is key since if we are talking about a developing pup, this could simply be genetic pigment as many noses are.

If not, and already full grown, then further investigation is warranted.

Black hair pigment is directly driven by the amino acid Tyrosine, and supported by Copper and other trace minerals.  People who feed largely a chicken based diet for example often see faded or red coats in their black dogs.  Tyrosine is found in high quantities in red meat and if not fed, may need to be supplemented.

Skin pigment is different however and there are many causes - snow nose, dudley nose, and other genetic factors should be ruled in/out, while looking at medical causes.



43
[quote would a few minutes on a treadmill here and there throughout the day (along with the normal playing/tug/puzzle/cat chasing/hide and seek games we play with Tucker) be ok?


[/quote]

I think you have already identified more effective, safer, and more stimulating things to do indoors during those situations:  tug of war, hide and seek, and even better, teach Tucker "shaping" and there will be no end to the games using his brain you can do indoors.  Shaping is an invaluable skill for me and very useful when I have dogs with fears for example.  if thunder strikes, shaping games keep dogs distracted, focused and mentally engaged and showing no fear.  A great tool.

Skip the treadmill - it is risky and not worth the endeavor.

44

Just one of MANY horrible ideas I see on that show.  Sad, since I understand that our human preferences are different and we dont want to be out in bitter weather, but Tucker is sitting there patiently waiting for that winter to come, and you want to keep him in?  Don't tell Tucker!

Going out every day for a BMD is more about mental and emotional stimulation - smelling things, finding other dogs or critters to engage, playing in snow etc.  Nothing on a treadmill will replace what your BMD needs.  Even Cesar is using it for solely those high energy dogs or overweight who need to burn calories.  That kind of repetitive motion without any stimulation or enjoyment is not beneficial or a sound replacement for getting outdoors.

45
Great Pyrenees Discussions / Re: How often do you clean your Pyr's ears?
« on: September 15, 2008, 04:18:19 pm »

Your vet can culture the ear material to determine if it is yeast or bacteria.  Yeast is usually easy to tell however - it is dark and slimy/waxy with a strong odor. The healthy ear has no detectable odor at all, so this is easy to tell if you put your nose to it.

Grain free is a good start, but any food intolerance can create a yeast imbalance in the system so the key is to find out if there is something causing this intolerance.  You can't do this on a processed food. You would have to start feeding a homemade elimination diet - starting with one protein and one non-protein for at least a week.  Then adding one ingredient at a time that is in the dog food until you identify the problem.

If it is bacterial however, this can be general allergy - environmental for example.  Many mistakenly believe there is a specific active infection - but bacteria can also easily grow out of balance if there have been antibiotics administered in the past, or other drugs that wipe out the system, without then the use of probiotics to replenish the system...alway s good to use probiotics like Primal Defense (Garden of Life) and I would recommend this as well given the situation.

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